Happy 10th Birthday, Union Street Cafe!

In the fall of 1998 I started watching a television show filmed in Prince Edward Island.  It was called the Inn Chef, and it featured a tall, handsome man who was giddy with enthusiasm for the elaborate food he was preparing.  The Inn at Bay Fortune, where Michael Smith both filmed the show and was chef of their fine restaurant, even maintained their own garden to supply the kitchen.  Each episode featured a visit to a local farm or producer that supplied the food he was showcasing that day.  I was hooked.  Inspired by Michael Smith’s philosophy of garden to table cooking, I made a decision:  I wanted to be….a farmer.

I would be the one behind the beautiful overladen farm market table in braids and overalls.  I would not only be able to grow the food, arrange it attractively for sale and price it accordingly, I would hand out cooking tips and recipes, too!  I began work on a house on land my parents had given me, and they made room in their garden for me to experiment in.

The summer of 2000, my mother told me that her and my aunt Kate wanted to buy the Apple Town Café in Berwick.  We had always talked about opening a restaurant, but mostly it was in the way of “when we win the lottery we’ll open a big Mexican place”.  It had been an unrealistic fantasy, something we had dreamed about doing but knew would never really happen.  Now they were talking about actually making a family restaurant a reality, and they wanted my sister Meagan and I to be partners in this ridiculous scheme!  Of course we said yes.

 The Apple Town Café was owned by our neighbour, Margo Armstrong, who had been running the place herself for eight years.  She had a wonderful clientele, including us, who came for her homemade chowder and the beautiful sandwiches on thick sliced bread.  

We dreamed and planned all that summer and a date was set: November 6^th 2000.  To get ready to transition into this new enterprise, we each spent a day a week working with Margo and learning the ropes.  The week before we were to take over, we drove around the Valley together picking up carrots and onions from Sawler’s, feta and olives from Holmestead, and meeting with our accountant, who told us we were nuts.  He wasn’t the only one.  The current staff at the Café looked at our huge food purchases as we lugged them in and shook their heads.  What were we going to do with all that food?  Wouldn’t it go bad before we could use it?

That's Meagan, my Mom Anna, me and Kate in 2000

The four of us had come together for this project with a common goal: to showcase the local foods being produced right in the Annapolis Valley, to make healthy, flavourful dishes that people would savour, and to do it all with joy and love.  It seemed obvious to us:  Foods produced locally are fresher, so they taste better!  If we bought them in large enough quantities, they would actually be cheaper than imports, which is not a small consideration for most restaurant owners.  Since we came to this business with a love of cooking, we reveled in the labour-intensive process of working with these raw ingredients and helping them become something wonderful to eat.

My mother Anna had limited restaurant experience and had been working for Lois Hare, Naturopathic Doctor.  In her time there, she had met many people with dietary restrictions recommended by Lois and she enjoyed helping them with cooking advice and recipes.  She worked on a special menu catering to these needs, and we simply inserted this into the Apple Town Café’s menu for opening day.  We decorated the glass topped tables with leaves we had pressed that Autumn along with an open letter to our customers new and old that said “welcome to our little Café”.

Since there were four of us, we figured we could cover everything ourselves and that meant working from 7am to 7pm every day, six days a week.  Most days flew by, as word spread of good cooking from scratch made with local ingredients.  You see, our first new customers were our suppliers, the first of many unexpected benefits of our method of doing things.  They helped by supporting us, telling their friends that their own products were being used at the Café.  The response was incredible.  By our first summer, lineups were common and we were really overwhelmed.  People were so enthusiastic, and we were delighted as sales quadrupled in our first year.  We survived a restaurant review by Stephen Maher without one critical remark.  It truly was a dream come true, albeit with much harder work and longer hours than I had ever fantasized about.  

This is the simple truth: most people enjoy food more when they feel a connection to it.  By drawing attention to the fact that the food on their plate not only looks and tastes better, but contributes to a healthier economy and planet, their enjoyment is heightened.  Instead of consuming items of which we know almost nothing about and connect with almost no one to obtain, we can turn this transaction into a deeply satisfying human exchange.  When I take Spinach and Tomatoes and Garlic grown by Dora and Henry Penner and bake it into a pizza with Holmestead Feta, it is a spiritual experience for me and maybe even my customer.  Add a glass of wine made in Grand Pre, and you truly are in heaven.

Of course, there are challenges and temptations along the way.  It is understandable why some restaurants enjoy the convenience of one or two big trucks pulling up twice a week as compared to the  constant stream of producers at our door.  Some are too busy to deliver and that means if you want it, you must go get it, not always easy to do.  But some of my best conversations in a week are held over a case of free range chickens or a box of portabellos and over the last ten years, that means a large part of my life has been shared with people I otherwise might never have met.

Focusing on local carries a responsibility to do the best you can.  While we buy only local tomatoes from March to December. I still have a typical restaurateur disease: Fear of  Not Serving Caesar.  In the winter that means cases of romaine from California.  I do dream of taking it all the way and shunning all reliance on foods grown outside Atlantic Canada.  I’d turn our basement into a winter hydroponic garden and grow basil on the roof in the summer.  But for now I try to take the responsibility of employing sixteen plus people and balancing that with pleasing the public and feeling good about the choices I make.  Basically, if the product is available locally we will buy it!  That’s what our customers expect.

Food consciousness is contagious.  When you enter our Café, the names of our suppliers are proudly displayed around the diningroom in chalk.  It’s a joy to watch that list grow and to let folks in on our enthusiasm for these products.  We can tell them where they can buy the foods they’ve enjoyed in their dinner here.  I hope that this can become a bridge from farmer to food lover. 

Over the years, we have changed and grown.  We moved in 2003 to the old Rice’s restaurant on Commercial Street.  This location hosts many memories for folks who grew up around here and that history adds to the feeling that we’re here to stay.  My partners moved on to other projects in 2006, but Meagan came back to work shortly after and I could not do it without her.  My mom Anna now does most of the baking at the restaurant, and Kate has a sweet little coffee shop out front. 

I feel grateful to this small town for being wonderfully supportive.  Our wonderful, ever evolving family of staff is truly amazing.  And being in the Valley just makes it so easy to make great food.  Thank you to all of the gardeners, bakers, cheesemakers, farmers and glorious food loving folks that make Union Street Cafe what it is.  I love each and every one of you.

This morning, I got a phone call from Michael Smith congratulating us on our success and encouraging me to keep doing what I'm doing. I think I'm good for at least another ten! 

Pears

Pears are not my favourite fruit. I'm embarassed to tell you that the first time I enjoyed a pear, it was canned. In syrup. However, I have really come to appreciate pears, sliced raw alongside good crackers and cheese (That Dutchman's Dragon's Breath is my favourite right now), baked with apples in a crumble pie, poached in red wine with raspberries, and even roasted on a pizza with duck confit and bleu cheese. I've even gone so far as to come up with my own version of a Pear Upside Down Cake, baked in a cast iron skillet.

Pear trees abound in the Valley, and their early blossoms brighten up what can be a slow start to spring. In the cool of autumn, pears baked into warm desserts are homey and comforting. I'm waiting for a really nice cold day to try out an Apple and Pear Crostada. I'll ask Sean to build a fire and when the kids get off the bus, a warm treat will be waiting for them.

Beautiful local pears are available in stores and farmers markets right now. Noggins Corner grows 13 varieties including Bosc, Sheldon, Conferens, Bartlett and Flemish Beauty. Pears will ripen quickly if stored at room temperature, so store most of your purchase in the fridge and remove a few at a time for fresh eating. For baking, pears are fine straight from the fridge.

Roasted Pears

Serve these sliced with cheese and crackers, or with a drizzle of honey and a spoonful of vanilla yogurt.

They are also delicious with pancakes or hot cereal (and a weird but excellent pizza topping with bleu cheese).

4 firm-ripe Pears, any variety

Canola Oil

Preheat oven to 350°. Peel the pears and cut in half. Using a melon baller or small spoon, remove the core neatly. Place the pears in a small baking dish and rub all over with a little oil. Bake for 20-30 minutes, until softened and beginning to brown around the edges. Let cool and serve right away, or refrigerate tightly covered until needed.

Pear and Ricotta Upside Down Cake

Ok, I only partly made it up. The cake part is really a recipe for “Vanilla Ricotta Muffins” from Sunshine Cafe, an excellent breakfast cookbook from Mollie Katzen. Therefore, eating this cake for breakfast is fully justified.

1 T. Butter

3 Pears, peeled, cored and sliced thickly

¼ C. Maple Syrup or Brown Sugar

1 ½ C. Flour

½ C. Dry Milk Powder

½ t. Salt

1 ½ t. Baking Powder

½ C. Sugar

¼ t. Cinnamon

1 C. Ricotta or Cottage Cheese

½ C. Milk

2 Eggs

1 T. Vanilla

¼ C. Melted Butter

Whipped Cream or Vanilla Yogurt for serving

Preheat oven to 350°. Heat a 9 or 10 inch cast iron skillet over medium heat and throw in the butter. When it melts, add the pears. Cook the pears, stirring gently and often, for 8-10 minutes, until slightly softened. Drizzle in the syrup or sprinkle in the brown sugar and cook another minute. Remove the pan from the heat. In a large bowl, combine the flour, milk powder, salt, baking powder, sugar and cinnamon. In a second bowl, whisk together the cheese, milk, eggs, vanilla and butter. Add the ricotta mixture to the dry ingredients and mix with a spoon until just combined. Arrange the pears in the pan so they are in an even layer and pour the batter over them. Place the pan in the middle of the oven and bake for 25-30 minutes, until firm and browned. Cut into wedges and invert each onto a serving plate, topping with whipped cream (flavoured with a grating of fresh nutmeg if you like).

Pumpkins and Squash

Last week I stopped at Forsyths's Farm Market just outside of Berwick to buy some pumpkins and gourds for decorating and was happy to see that Brice had grown some gorgeous Warted Hubbard squashes. Hubbards are huge and have a surprisingly delicious dark orange flesh. For $3.99, one could have all the squash a family could eat for months!

Large squash like these are a trick to break into, but a large knife and some care and patience will help. Once you've cut the squash into large pieces, discard the seeds and stringy pulp and cut away the peel with your knife. Pile the pieces into a roasting pan, cover with foil and bake at 350° until falling-apart tender. Pass the pieces through a food mill or process until smooth. Use some right away, and freeze the rest in 2 to 4 cup portions in freezer bags. I like to flatten the bags so they stack neatly in my freezer. Use your squash in “pumpkin” pies, in soups, cakes, or any recipe calling for squash or pumpkin puree.

Brice (King of Squash) Forsyth also had Sweet Mama, Ambercup, Acorn, Butternut, Buttercup and Sweet Dumpling squashes on display in bins, along with Pie Pumpkins. Many of these winter squashes store very well in a cool place for a few months, but they can also be frozen for longer storage. Simply cut in half, scoop away seeds and place face down on a baking sheet. Bake until very tender, then cool a little and scoop the flesh away from the peel. Process as above.

Sausage Stuffed Squash serves 4

My mom perfected this when I was a teenager. I loved it! I remember storing a squash in my dorm room closet and making this for my friend Mari. We were vegetarian at the time, so we left the sausage out and it is really good that way, too. You may want to add a little cooked bulgur or soy crumbles.

2 small or 1 large Buttercup Squash, cut in half and seeds removed

Pretty Little Pie Pumpkin from Waxwing Farm

1 lb. Sausage or ground pork

1 Onion, diced

2 cloves Garlic, minced

3 stalks Celery, diced

1 T. Flour

1 can Tomatoes

1 t. Dried Thyme or ½ t. Sage

Salt and Pepper

¼ C. Toasted Walnuts or Sunflower Seeds

½ C. Grated Cheddar

Preheat the oven to 350°. Place the squash on a baking sheet cut side down. Bake for about an hour, until the squash is tender when pierced with a knife. Meanwhile, make the filling. If the sausage is in casings, remove them. Place the sausage in a large pan over medium-high heat and add the onion, garlic and celery. Cook and stir until sausage has browned and onions and celery have softened. Sprinkle in the flour, then add the tomatoes and their juice, squishing the tomatoes in your hands as you add them to break them up. Stir and cook another five minutes, until the mixture bubbles and thickens. Remove from the heat. Taste and add a little salt if necessary, and season with black pepper. Turn the squash over and press down on them gently to flatten the bottoms so they are stable. Spoon the filling into the shells (there may be some leftover) and sprinkle with the walnuts or sunflower seeds. Top with the cheddar and return to the oven for 15 minutes, until the cheese has melted and is beginning to brown.

Pumpkin Gingerbread

I love baking with pumpkin, and this recipe is the result of years of experimentation! It's a delicious combination of gingerbread with a pumpkin pie filling. Why not? Gingerbread makes a great “crust” for pumpkin pie, and the swirling mosaic of pumpkin and cake is as beautiful as it is delicious.

Well, maybe not beautiful, but beautifully delicious!

Spice Mix

2 t. Cinnamon

1 T. Ground Ginger

1 t. Freshly grated Nutmeg

½ t. Cloves

1 t. Salt

Gingerbread:

1/3 C. Melted Butter

1 C. Molasses

1 Egg, lightly beaten

1 C. Orange Juice

2 ½ C. Whole Wheat Flour

1 t. Baking Soda

4 t. Spice Mix

Pumpkin part:

2 C. Pumpkin, cooked and mashed (or canned)

1 ½ C. Milk or Blend

½ C. Sugar

2 Eggs

4 t. Spice Mix

Preheat the oven to 350°. Butter a 9x13 pan. Combine all the spices in a small bowl and set aside. For the gingerbread, combine the butter, molasses,eggs, orange juice, flour, baking soda and 4 teaspoons of the spice mix in a large bowl. Whisk until thoroughly combined and pour into the pan. In the same bowl, combine the pumpkin, milk, sugar, eggs and remaining 4 teaspoons spice mix. Pour the pumpkin mixture evenly over the gingerbread. Bake for 40-55 minutes, until the gingerbread is firm and springy and the pumpkin custard is set.

Apples

Just one of 6 Suprima Farm Apple varieties I tasted yesterday!

When I was eighteen, I announced to my parents that I was going to travel to British Columbia, to pick apples in the Okanagan Valley. This made no sense considering that I had grown up in one of the major apple producing areas in the world and had never once picked a bin. I didn't even know how to strap on the basket, which made it embarassing after telling our first farmer that we were experienced pickers. Apple picking is hard work, but it's fairly lucrative. It's gorgeous and cool in an orchard first thing in the morning, and you get to eat apples.

My favourites have always been the Cortland and Gravenstein, two older varieties that are best when freshly twisted off the tree. They are sweet and crispy with the sour bite that I love in an apple. The Valley grows a huge variety of apples, and hot new additions to the lineup just keep coming. This year our local growers harvested the first commercial crop of SweeTango. After the amazing success of the tasty and expensive HoneyCrisp, I imagine consumers will flock to the store for this newest trend in apples.

Be careful when shopping for apples in the Valley. Shockingly, despite all the wealth of locally grown fruit, apples imported from Chile, the USA and New Zealand are given ample shelf space in most grocery stores. Buy your apples at a market stand and your chances of landing local fruit improve dramatically. Apples are a great value when purchased in 10 or 20 pound bags, but if you can't stuff them in your fridge, you'll have to eat them quickly!

Better yet, visit a U-Pick. Boates even has organic apples in neat old varieties that you can pick yourself. Another favourite of mine is Dempsey Corner Orchards, where you can enjoy the beautiful view of the Valley as you pick from a tree halfway up the North Mountain. Noggins Corner has great apples and a wicked Corn Maze (try going after school rather then on the weekend, it's crazy-busy!). Although Richard Hennigar of Suprima Farms (the JuicePop Man) doesn't have a U-Pick, his was one of many farms in Nova Scotia that were open to the public September 19th during Open Farm Day.  This is a great way to get a behind the scenes look at farms that are not normally open to the public. 

At the restaurant, we'll be baking several varieties of apples into pies, crisps, and cakes. The best for baking include Northern Spy, Jonagold, Gravenstein, and Rhode Island Greening, esteemed by the Joy of Cooking as “perhaps the best of all for cooking” and available from Boates Orchards.

Bavarian Apple Torte serves 10-12

This recipe was one of our inheritances from the Apple Town Cafe, the Cafe we purchased that morphed into Union Street Cafe.  Is it really Bavarian?  I don't know.  But it is certainly delicious!

Shortbread Crust

1 1/4 C. Flour

1/3 C. Sugar

1/4 t. Salt

1/2 C. Butter

Preheat oven to 350. Pulse in food processor until crumbs form and press into a 10-inch springform pan.  Bake 15-20 minutes, until golden.

For the filling:

1 lb. Cream Cheese

2 Eggs

3/4 C. Sugar

1 t. Vanilla

3 lovely Apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced 

2 T. Sugar

1 t. Cinnamon

Blend cream cheese, eggs, 3/4 C. sugar and vanilla until smooth in a food processor and pour over baked crust in pan.  Toss apples with 2 T. sugar and cinnamon and arrange over the filling in a pinwheel pattern.  Bake at 350 for 35 minutes, until just set in the center.  Let cool, then refrigerate for at least two hours before serving.

Annette's Apple and Cheddar Focaccia serves 4

This open faced sandwich can be made on any decent, sturdy bread.

¼ C. Mango or any other Chutney

¼ C. Mayonnaise

1 T. Dijon Mustard

4 pieces Focaccia

½ lb. Shaved Ham

½ small Red Onion, sliced

2 Sweet and Crispy Apples, sliced (Red Delicious need not apply)

1 C. Grated Cheddar Cheese

Preheat the broiler and move the oven rack to its highest position. Mix the chutney, mayo and mustard. Lightly toast the focaccia and spread with the chutney mayo. Layer with the ham, onion, apples and lastly the cheddar. Place on a baking sheet and slide under the broiler. Watch like a hawk while the cheese melts, then bubbles, and finally browns.

Applesauce Cake serves 12-16
 This is a simple and nearly fat free cake that is delicious and homey. Try topping it with the leftover applesauce, lightly sweetened if you like, and vanilla yogurt or ice cream.

To make the applesauce, peel 3 pounds of apples and remove cores. Combine with ¼ cup water in a saucepan and cook, covered, over medium-low heat for thirty minutes, until falling apart. Let cool, then mash or process until smooth.

2 C. Applesauce

3/4-1 C. Sugar

2 C. Flour (can be whole wheat)

2 Eggs, lightly beaten

2 t. Cinnamon

2 t. Baking Soda

1 t. Salt

½ C. Raisins, optional

½ C. Toasted Walnuts, optional

Preheat the oven to 350°. Butter a 9x13 pan. Combine all the ingredients in a large bowl and whisk unitl just combined. Pour into the pan. Bake for 30 minutes, until springy to the touch.

Trouble at the Henhouse

It is with sadness that I announce the passing of Cock-A-Doodle-Do, a fine and handsome rooster who met his end defending his flock.  He had just learned how to crow.  We will miss you, Cock-A-Doodle.

Fast and Picky

My friend Katie has a truly funny mama blog. It's called Katie Anna. Don't read it while you're eating, because you will laugh out loud involuntarily and you may ruin your computer. Anyway, she suggested recently I come up with some good quick supper ideas that work for families, something I'd been thinking about a lot. That's because school has started, along with Brownies and Beavers. And I'm now packing two little lunches (the night before, so far, so good) with the kiddies' likes and dislikes in mind. Even someone who really enjoys cooking can get a little tired of the whole dinner thing, especially with children who don't appreciate their efforts. As my daughter gummed her Duck Confit at one year of age, I had hopes of raising mini epicureans, but now I keep it simple. That way, they don't cry when I put supper on the table.

My weeks go best when I plan a menu. If you enjoy reading food magazines or cookbooks at all (and I'm guessing that if you're reading this, you might) spend some time noting things you'd like to try. Then make a list of your family's tried and true favourites. Think about the week to come and slot things in accordingly. If you get really organized, you can take care of some things when you have the time, like on the weekend. Many prepared soups and casseroles keep well for up to a week, even improving (to a point). Make a grocery list so you're only running to the store once a week.

I was getting a lot of resistance at mealtimes until I discussed the issue with my co-worker, Alexis (remember, your childless friends often have the best parenting advice). She suggested to let the kids pick what's for dinner once a week, thereby winning cooperation, and it's worked really well. My daughter has even taken over cooking that meal (yes!), so we plan something she can handle, like quesadillas or macaroni and cheese. That inspired my son to want to help, too.

Perfectionist mommies and daddies, be flexible about what you call dinner. The first time we ate waffles at 6 pm, I felt guilty. Scrambled eggs and toast with a little fruit on the side might seem weird, but it's nutritionally sane and it's fun (hard to choose a wine, though). The same goes for sandwiches. Set up a Subway-style sandwich bar with roasted chicken or ham, sliced pickles, cucumbers, (in my son's world, these count as two separate vegetables) tomatoes, peppers, cheese and some good bread and condiments. Then place your order.

Other do-ahead Kitchen Witch recipes your kids might enjoy include the Baked Tofu and Thai Pork Burgers (while you top yours with cilantro and chili sauce, they can mask the taste of that nasty basil with ketchup and mustard).

Big Batch Chili

At our house, this is a favourite. The optional toppings make it fun and kid-friendly. You may notice it's vegetarian, but feel free to add a pound of browned ground beef or cooked diced chicken.  It makes a big batch but it freezes brilliantly.

1 T. Olive Oil

1 large Onion, diced

2 cloves Garlic

2 Sweet Peppers, diced (green or red or one of each)

4 stalks Celery, diced

3 T. Chili Powder

2 t. Salt

3 Cans of Beans (Black, Kidney and White Beans are nice, but it's your choice!)

2 28 oz cans diced Tomatoes

1 small can Tomato Paste, optional

2 C. frozen or fresh Corn

Topping Ideas: Plain Yogurt or Sour Cream, Shredded Cheese, Sliced Olives, Banana Peppers, Diced Avocado, Hot Sauce, and Crushed Tortilla Chips

Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onions, garlic, peppers and celery, and stir and cook for about ten minutes, until softened and aromatic. Add the salt and chili powder, and stir another minute. Add the beans with their liquid, and the tomatoes with all their liquid. Stir up the pot and bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to medium-low and let cook for about half an hour. Stir in the optional tomato paste and ground beef or chicken if you like, and the corn. The chili is ready to serve once the corn has heated through. Serve the toppings at the table and dig in!

Made-to-Order Quesadillas 
 

These are really just Mexican grilled cheese sandwiches. Choose a decent whole wheat tortilla and talk your kid into as many vegetables as they can handle (sometimes, that's none). At the Cafe, we mix up a filling of black beans, diced mango, red pepper, charred corn and green onion and place a handful of that on top of the cheese. It's delish.

For each quesadilla:

1 large (or small!) Tortilla

a handful grated Mozzarella or Cheddar Cheese

Refried Beans straight from a can, or process 1 can Black or Kidney Beans with 1 clove Garlic and
1 T. Chili Powder until smooth

Optional Fillings: Diced Peppers, Green or Red Onion, Tomatoes, Corn, Pineapple, Mango, Diced leftover Chicken, Pork or Beef

Salsa and Sour Cream for serving

Preheat the oven to 350° if making a quantity of quesadillas. If you're making only one or two, just heat a large frying pan over medium heat. Spread some beans and sprinkle cheese over the whole tortilla and add as many of the optional toppings as you would like. Place the tortilla in the pan. When the bottom has browned and the cheese has melted, fold the whole thing in half and transfer it to your plate. If you're making lots of quesadillas, fold each quesadilla in half once filled and place on a baking sheet. Bake for 10-15 minutes until filling is hot. Serve with salsa and sour cream on the side.

From the Freezer Meatballs

I got this idea from Martha Stewart's Everyday Food. Meatball in the freezer=money in the bank. Saute them straight from frozen and serve with veggie sticks and mashed potatoes, bake them (no need to thaw) on top of a pizza, or add directly to simmering tomato sauce (yours or the store's) and cook for ten minutes before serving them with spaghetti. Isn't that brilliant? Thanks, Martha.

2 lb. Ground Beef or Pork (or a mix of both)

¼ C. Minced Parsley

3 cloves Garlic, minced

1/2 C. Grated Parmesan Cheese

¼ C. Breadcrumbs

2 Eggs

1 t. Salt

Pepper and maybe a grating of fresh Nutmeg

Combine everything in a bowl. Form into about 80 little meatballs, placing each one on a baking sheet. Freeze until solid and store in a resealable plastic bag.